I have tried everything with this Loklik printer, and it is still not printing ink on the film. Can someone tell me if they had the same issue and what did you do to fix the issue.
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Hello @melody.baker24 
. I know it can be frustrating learning a new machine. Many new users have had issues when first starting with their new DTF printer. I’m assuming you have a brand new printer that’s never printed, am I correct? If so, here are some reasons your printer may not be printing and some recommendations to try out that will, hopefully, help you get your printer up and running properly. Give them a try and let us know if anything worked for you. Let us also know if they didn’t work so we can try to figure out the next steps to take.
For a brand new HTVRONT DTF printer not printing, the most common reasons are air in the ink lines/unprimed head, incorrect RIP software settings (wrong profile/mode), or physical blockages/connections like clogged dampers or loose cables, with a new printer often needing an initial full ink charge to get ink flowing to the printhead. Start with the initial ink charge and check for air bubbles in the lines; if that fails, verify software settings and physical connections before running more cleanings.
Initial Setup & Ink Flow
Initial Ink Charge: A new printer needs an initial ink charge to fully push ink through all lines to the printhead; run this from the printer utility.
Air in Lines/Dampers: Trapped air prevents ink flow; run cleanings to pull ink through or manually prime lines with a syringe if needed.
Capping Station & Pump: Ensure the capping station seals well and the pump is working by checking if ink is pulled into the waste tank during cleaning.
Software & Settings
RIP Software Configuration: Confirm the RIP software (like REN) is set to the correct DTF media profile and printing in DTF mode, not just standard CMYK.
Image Setup: Ensure the image is correctly sized and mirrored in the software before sending to print.
Physical Checks
Cartridges & Chips: Make sure cartridges are recognized, chips are clean, and the ink is sealed tightly.
Printhead Connections: Gently check that ribbon cables to the printhead are secure and not loose.
Film Orientation: Load the DTF film with the correct print side facing up.
Next Steps
Run a full ink charge via the printer’s utility.
Perform a nozzle check to see if ink is reaching the head.
Run 2-3 head cleanings, checking for ink pull.
Double-check all physical connections and software settings, especially the RIP profile.
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Thank you for your reply. This is not a new printer however I did have to reinstall the software and maybe that’s when some of my issues started. Can you you please tell me what the software settings should be?
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You’re very welcome. Settings may vary, but I found this video for you, in which @Delonda_Ford shows you her settings.
How to Use RIIN Software for Beginners
The settings section starts around the 2:40 mark.
If this doesn’t work, maybe, @rinsky has some suggestions.
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Hi @melody.baker24! I’m sorry you run to this kind of issue. Please check think link for your reference only. Hope it helps! Please keep us updated.
OTHER Link might help you below:
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Hi!
I would look at the manual for the printer for the correct settings 
Hi Samantha,
I just got my printer and I am, having a few issues. First the ink is not going thru the lines and second my print head is slamming to the left and does not follow any command when I try to send it to the right.
I have setup the Loklik software and ran the print charge but nothing, I also ran cleaning cycle and nothing. Soooo, here’s the fun part- how in the word do I prime the lines manually- I am terrified to mess something up. DO you happen to have step by step instructions or maybe a video you can reference?
I also saw a video how to try to get the print head to stop going left but it did not work either.
Any tips or suggestions you have would be greatly appreciate.
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Hi Ashley. Welcome to the community. Congratulations on the new printer.
Before I walk you through anything, can you confirm whether you have the D1 or D2?
The priming steps and the head‑movement troubleshooting are slightly different between the two, so I don’t want to give you the wrong instructions.
Here are the only things that apply to both models:
Ink not moving through the lines
- Make sure the ink tanks are at least half full and the vents/lids are open.
- Don’t keep running cleaning cycles — if the lines are full of air, the pump can’t pull ink yet.
- Both models require the lines to be primed, but the method depends on whether it’s D1 or D2, so I’ll give the exact steps once I know which one you have.
Print head slamming left
This usually means the printer can’t “find home.” Check these:
- Make sure all packing tape/foam is removed from the carriage area.
- With the printer OFF, gently slide the carriage to see if anything is blocking it.
- Check the encoder strip (the clear strip behind the carriage) for ink or smudges.
- Make sure nothing is blocking the left‑side home sensor.
If you can reply with:
- D1 or D2,
- A quick photo of your ink lines,
- And a short clip of the head movement,
I can give you the exact step‑by‑step for your model.
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Hi! Sorry I forgot that small detail, its the D2.
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Hi! Since you confirmed you have the Loklik D2, here are the steps that apply specifically to that model.
1. Ink not going through the lines (D2‑specific)
The D2 does not have manual priming ports and you should not pull ink with a syringe.
If the lines are still clear, try these in order:
-
Check the ink tank vents
Make sure the little vent caps on top of each tank are open.
If they’re closed, the pump can’t pull ink at all. -
Make sure the print head is fully parked on the capping station
If the head isn’t sealing correctly, the pump can’t create suction.
Turn the printer OFF and gently slide the carriage left and right.
Then push it all the way to the right until it “clicks” into the parked position. -
Run ONE ink charge
On the D2, the ink charge is the only safe way to prime the lines.
If you’ve already run it once, you can run it one more time, but don’t keep repeating it.
If the lines still don’t move after vents open + proper parking + one more charge, that usually means the head isn’t sealing on the cap or the pump isn’t pulling — both are warranty issues.
2. Print head slamming to the left (D2‑specific)
This is almost always a sensor or obstruction issue on the D2.
Check these:
-
Remove ALL shipping tape/foam
The D2 ships with tape on the rail, belt, and sometimes under the carriage.
One missed piece will cause the head to slam left. -
Encoder strip
The clear strip behind the carriage must be clean.
If it has ink or fingerprints, the carriage can’t read position and will slam left. -
Home sensor on the left side
Make sure nothing is blocking the little black sensor where the carriage “homes.” -
Belt tension
If the belt is loose or slipped off the pulley during shipping, the carriage won’t move correctly.
If the head still slams left after these checks, that’s almost always a sensor alignment issue and needs Loklik support.
3. What NOT to do on the D2
- Don’t pull ink with a syringe
- Don’t disconnect lines
- Don’t force the carriage while it’s powered on
- Don’t run endless cleanings or charges
If you can send a quick photo of your ink lines and a short clip of the carriage movement, I might can tell you exactly which part is causing it.
Ok so now the ink is in the lines and the print head is moving correctly. I sent my first print job and all I got was huge blobs of ink. I ran the cleaning again but still the ink coming out it a messy amount. any ideas on how to fix this issue? Let me just say you have been way more helpful than support.
Hi, Ashley! I’m honored you feel that way. I’m always happy to help. Now let’s see if we can get to the bottom of this issue.
Since your ink is flowing and the carriage is moving correctly now, the blobs you’re seeing almost always mean the printhead is flooded with ink. This can happen after the first priming or if the head wasn’t sealed earlier. Here’s how to fix it on the D2 (safe steps only):
1. Run ONE normal cleaning — not deep cleaning
Deep cleaning on the D2 can make flooding worse.
A single normal cleaning helps pull excess ink off the nozzles.
2. Let the printer sit for 10–15 minutes
This gives the head time to equalize pressure and stop drooling.
3. Print a small, simple test (like a 1-inch square)
If it prints cleanly → the flooding is clearing.
If it still blobs → go to step 4.
4. Gently blot the bottom of the printhead
Turn the printer OFF.
Slide the carriage to the center.
Use a folded, dry, lint‑free paper towel.
Lightly touch it to the nozzles — don’t wipe, just blot.
This removes pooled ink without damaging anything.
5. Make sure your platen gap is correct
If the printhead is too close to the film, it will smear and blob.
The D2 should have a small but visible gap — not touching the film.
6. Check that your film is loaded matte side up
Glossy side up can cause ink pooling and smearing.
Let me know what happens after you try these steps — whether it fixes the blobs or not. That way I can help you figure out the next move if it’s still acting up.
Ok little by little we might actual be getting somewhere. Here is a pic of what’s going on, I did the cleaning 3 times (the regular one) and did a pink, blue, yellow and white square (each color a dif square) and then just text in black. The photo shows the results of the 3 cleaning and the smudge 
Also the paper is loaded correctly and what is platen gap is correct
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Hi, Ashley! Thanks so much for the images and explaining what you’ve done. That helps a lot.
It looks like you’re really close now — your colors are coming through and the head is moving correctly, which is great. The streak/smudge you’re seeing on the film isn’t a nozzle issue anymore. That kind of vertical smear almost always means the printhead is physically touching the film while it prints. When the head touches the film, it drags through the wet ink and leaves a streak just like the one in your photos.
At this point, more cleanings won’t fix it — you need to adjust the platen gap.
What the platen gap is:
The platen gap is just the distance between the printhead and the film. If the gap is too small, the head scrapes the film and smears the ink. If the gap is too big, the ink will spray too far and look fuzzy. You want a small but visible space so the head can “hover” over the film without touching it.
How to adjust the platen gap on the D2:
- Turn the printer off.
- Lift the lid and slide the carriage gently to the center.
- On the right side of the print area, you’ll see the platen height adjustment knob/lever.
- Turn it one small click upward to raise the gap slightly.
- Close the lid, turn the printer back on, and print a small test square.
- If you still see smudging, raise it one more tiny step and test again.
You only want to raise it a little at a time — too high can cause fuzzy edges, but too low causes exactly the streak you’re seeing.
Please let me know what happens after you adjust it, whether it fixes the smudge or not. That way I can help you figure out the next step if it’s still acting up.
Try changing the print method to object so only white goes behind the objects colors
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OK bare with me, i am no exactly sure which knob you speak of. 
the only i see is where the printer goes to default but that doesn’t move the print head only the part where all the ink cleanings go ( i think). i can’t seem to locate what knob where it would lift the print head. Also, the knob i am speaking of, with one little turn (there is no licking), it moves up and down if you turn it too much. I really hope that’s the knob you are talking about.
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No worries at all — the D2 doesn’t label this clearly, so it’s easy to miss. The knob you’re talking about is the right one. It’s the little round height‑adjustment knob on the right side of the print area. It won’t “click,” and it does move up and down if you turn it too far — that’s normal.
Here’s how to adjust it safely:
1. Turn the printer OFF.
This lets the carriage move freely.
2. Slide the printhead to the center.
Just gently push it so you can reach the area underneath.
3. Look on the right side of the print bed for the small round knob that raises/lowers the platform.
That’s the platen height adjuster.
4. Turn it just a tiny bit upward (like 1–2 millimeters).
You don’t want a big change — just enough to give the printhead a little more clearance so it stops touching the film.
5. Turn the printer back on and print a small test.
If you still see smudging, raise it a tiny bit more and test again.
You’re basically giving the printhead just a little more space so it doesn’t scrape the film. Too low = smudges. Too high = fuzzy edges. Small adjustments are the key.
Let me know what happens after you try that so we can figure out the next step if it’s still acting up.
Thanks for the picture — that helps a lot. It looks like the D2 doesn’t have the same height‑adjustment knob the D1 uses, so there isn’t a user‑adjustable way to raise or lower the printhead on this model, as far as I can tell. If you’ve made sure the film is flat and you’re still getting that streak, this is something only Loklik support can fix from their side. I’d reach out to them so they can walk you through the internal calibration or replace the unit if needed.