Centering is not my forte. Any tips on how to center an engraving on the item you want to create? I’m just getting started with the software that came with my machine, is there a tool that can help? Also is there a way to fire the laser when framing so I can see where the frame is? Thanks in advance!
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Hello, @sharllp! 
I don’t have the iEngrave, but I do engrave with another type of machine. I learned to make a jig — which is a template I can use to make sure my alignment is correct. I created my jig by creating a cardstock template in the same shape as my actual blank. I let the machine cut and engrave into the cardstock. I left my mat in my machine, then removed the fake engraved blank and inserted my real metal blank into the slot, then let the machine make another pass onto my real blank. This allowed the machine to get a perfect alignment onto the blank. However, my engraving machine is not a laser engraver like the iEngrave, so I suggest using a throw away piece of basswood or balsa wood to create your jig. Just keep the cut out jig, and make sure you place the jig and your design in the exact same spot every time you engrave. Add your preferred blank in the cutout slot of the jig, then remove the jig before engraving. I use the exact center of both the design software mat and the cutting mat. My machine was engraving about 3mm up from where I placed it on the mat. So, the jig allowed me to see exactly where the machine thinks the center is.
Here are some other tips for making a jig.
Use Jigs and Templates: Create a cardboard or wooden jig to hold items in the exact same spot for repeat jobs.
To make a jig for the LOKLiK iEngrave laser engraver, you can use the machine itself to cut a precise template that ensures perfect alignment for repetitive projects or oddly shaped items.
1. The Cardboard/Wood Template Method
This is the most common way to ensure centered engravings on blanks like coasters or tags.
Design: In LOKLiK IdeaStudio or LightBurn, create a shape (e.g., a circle or square) that is exactly 0.2mm larger than your physical blank.
Cut the Jig: Secure a piece of scrap cardboard or 3mm MDF to your laser bed with tape. Run the “Cut” command for your shape.
Placement: Remove the cut-out piece but do not move the remaining outer frame. Place your blank into the hole you just created.
Engrave: Place your design inside the same shape in your software. Disable the “Cut” layer and enable the “Engrave” layer to start the project.
2. The “Magic Sand” Jig (For Irregular Items)
For rounded or tapered objects like stones or ornaments that roll, use moldable sand.
Setup: Place a shallow tray of Magic Sand or Kinetic Sand on your engraving bed.
Molding: Press your object into the sand to create a snug cradle. This prevents the item from shifting while maintaining a level surface for the laser focus.
3. Creating a Multi-Item (Batch) Jig
If you are mass-producing items like business cards or pens:
Grid Layout: Use the Array Tool in your software to create a grid of shapes (e.g., 3x4 for 12 cards).
Stability: If using thin wood for the jig, glue it to a thicker backing board to prevent warping over time.
Software Tip: Always save your jig file as a template so you can reopen it later and have the exact coordinates ready for the next batch.
Pro Tip: If your engravings are still slightly off-center, use the LOKLiK calibration process to ensure the laser’s physical position matches the software’s grid.
@Judi_B and @DianeB are really good at getting theirs centered. Maybe, they can also give you some of their tips for centering.
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For centering I use a ruler and place where I want the design then measure same space for each side.
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@sharllp, centering an image or text on an item can definitely be tricky on the iEngrave since it doesn’t have a built‑in camera, but there are plenty of reliable workarounds.
For single items—like a leather hat patch—I measure the blank and create a matching template on my canvas. Before engraving the real piece, I place cardstock on the honeycomb and run a light cut or score to outline that template. Without moving anything, I place the leather patch directly on top of the scored outline securing it with some magnets and proceed with the engraving. This keeps everything perfectly aligned.
For multiple items, such as keychains, you’ll want to create a jig so each piece sits in the exact same position every time.
A great example for your reference on how to create a jig is from @skyicreations’s tutorial below hope it helps you and get some ideas.
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For me I place my blank close to the center and put design near their too then I watch the light carefully when it’s framing I have vision issues from a stroke so i honestly look at it from angles too and will hit frame multiple times and look at each line from side and top.
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Great tips! I find the Magic sand very interesting and may give it a try. I was hoping to avoid cutting a jig. I’ve kind of gotten used to using the “centering tool” in Lightburn and was hoping for something similar. But a jig works great, and the sand is tempting!
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I bought a L shaped ruler. That I haven’t used yet, but I am hoping that will help me with keeping my piece straight on the laser but, I had not thought of trying it for centering. Thanks!
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Thank you, I understand the pictures better than just words when it comes to directions. I will definitely check this tutorial a few times and follow along with it when I run my next project.
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Thank you! I’m happy you find them useful. Yeah, I thought I could avoid the jig, too, but it’s really been the most helpful for me. The others have shared some really good tips. I didn’t know if the laser engraver could work with cardstock, but I see @rinsky uses it. That’s good to know. That will keep you from using more expensive materials to create the jigs. 
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I have found that I can see the framing light better if I keep the laser module up higher than it needs to be. When I have it framed, I carefully lower it to the correct height for focus.
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Yup, I thought too! I want to challenge myself to run a test cut for cardstocks with the iEngrave in my Hands-On Review with the iEngrave Cover Machine | Part 2. Testing & Review | UPDATED. I was so please with the results and made more projects using cardstocks. Below were some projects I’ve done:
- DIY Project Sharing | Fresh Warm Coffee Served Daily with iEngrave Cover Machine
- DIY Project Sharing | 3D Happy Birthday Card | 5-layered Butterfly Card with iEngrave
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Oh, wow! Amazing cardstock projects! In my mind, the cardstock goes up in flames under the laser! 
Thanks so much for taking the risk and trying out the cardstock. That makes this machine even more terrific!
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Absolutely! Just don’t use the air assist when cutting cardstocks. 
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Oh, the visual I got in my head when I read that!
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